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I'm very new to electrical components, should I be on this website? I'm modifying an electric scooter to run at 50 volts as opposed to its rated 24 volts.

The most I’ve seen the motor draw is 45 amp at 35 volt up an incline, and I've done some research and I think its possible to use a 95 Ah car battery to power 2 of these generic 1500 W 30 amp boost converters in parallel by using a 5 watt resistor on both positive output terminals?

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Voltage Spike
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    Can you foresee any problems with running a 24 V motor at 35 V or 50 V? – Transistor May 18 '18 at 19:55
  • @transistor, so long as the bearings can handle the speed amps are the biggest risk to the motor. – Jasen Слава Україні May 18 '18 at 20:55
  • @Jasen - The question was directed at the OP. – WhatRoughBeast May 18 '18 at 21:18
  • Welcome to EE.SE! This appears to be a reverse engineering, modification, or repair question. Please be aware that such questions must involve specific troubleshooting steps and demonstrate a good understanding of the underlying design of the device being discussed, so that you can ask specific, focused questions that can be answered concisely. Otherwise, the question is far too broad. More information can be found here: [Is asking how to fix a faulty circuit on topic?](http://meta.electronics.stackexchange.com/q/2478/11683). – Dave Tweed May 18 '18 at 21:25
  • It is a little dangerous to start learning "electrical components" in area of 50 V and 50 A, a 2.5 kW power electronics. It will likely end up being pretty expensive, for purchased converters, scooter, and health. – Ale..chenski May 18 '18 at 21:31
  • All i want to know is if it's possible and how to do it. I got the scooter for free so i just want to make it go fast until it pops – Jake Warriner May 18 '18 at 21:45

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If you want to parallel supplies you typically run a circuit like this:

schematic

simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab

For the modules in question this may or may not work, the problem with DC to DC converters is they need to be synchronized so they don't work against each other (ie: one switches off and is charging while the other is switching its inductor on). If they have some way to sync their control loops then (or a sync pin) then this would be a good indication that they are parallelisable. You could easily smoke these supplies if they were not working in sync as they would source current into each other and the full power that they source would be dissipated in the components.

If you create a sufficient filter on the output this may work too with an LC filter, I've parallalised some DC to DC converters this way.

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