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I have old crystal radio high impedance headphones, and I would like to be able to use them to listen to music on my music player as well as to use them on my PC.

What kind of circuit do I have to assemble to make it work with low power DC, if that is even possible?

Voltage Spike
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  • Headphones don't operate on DC. Neither do your high impedance headphones. There should not be a DC voltage on the headphone lines at all. – JRE Feb 23 '18 at 20:16
  • If you directly hook them up, the delivered power will be quite a bit less. A small audio xfrmr for impedance matching, or else a small simple powered circuit if I was in a situation where I could consider 'powering' the unit, is probably how I'd approach it. Note that a player output designed to deliver \$500\:\text{mV}_\text{RMS}\$ to a \$32\:\Omega\$ headphone jack will deliver perhaps 2% of the designed power into a \$2\:\text{k}\Omega\$ headphone set. – jonk Feb 23 '18 at 23:03

4 Answers4

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Have you tried connecting them straight to the headphone port? Depending on the sensitivity of the headphones, they may actually deliver acceptable volume.

If not, you'll need something to raise the voltage. You can do this in so many different ways. One method is to use something with a pro audio level line output - like a mixer. A balanced pro audio line out delivers a signal up to 60Vp-p which should be enough for the headphones.

Another method is to use a small audio transformer. The turns ratio of the transformer depends on the sensitivity of the headphones. You want something with a low impedance primary (8 to 32 ohms) and a high impedance secondary (several kohms or tens of kohms). Normally, good quality audio transformers are expensive. But considering the fidelity of crystal headphones won't be very high, you can just use a cheap transformer.

A third method is to connect the headphones to the output of a normal audio power amplifier. You may be able to connect them to the headphone port, but certainly they will work on the speaker terminals. The more powerful the amplifier the better, because you need a decent voltage. You're not actually delivering any significant power to the headphones, but you do need the voltage that a high power amplifier delivers.

The fourth method is to build your own amplifier around an opamp (5532 or TL072 are good choices). You will need to use a suitable power supply, probably +/- 12V or more. A PC power supply isn't a good choice because they're very low quality and noisy. You'll probably need to build your own supply. You might be able to use two or three 9V batteries. The gain required of the amplifier depends on how high the signal level from your audio devices is, and the sensitivity of the headphones. You might use a pot to adjust the gain, as a starting point I'd suggest you'd need an amplification factor of around 6 times (36dB gain).

Foxie
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They ought to work with no electrical modification (amplifiers or what have you.)

Attach them to a standard headphone plug and try it out. You should be able to rewire them for stereo pretty easily.

Don't expect any kind of overwhelming sound quality.

They were built to the requirements of the equipment in use way back when. Working with almost no power was a must. Hifi audio wasn't.

JRE
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Considerations:

I believe this is a copy of another question, or perhaps - the answer to another question also answers this one. See the following question answered by @wbeaty: stack exchange

Answer:

Essentially @wbeaty suggests using a transformer in series with the headphone to alter the voltage and current to match newer devices. The idea here is that just as a transformer can be used to transform voltage and current, it can be used to "emulate" impedance such that a circuit see's a different impedance than actually is present (note this is done in transmission and distribution as well).

Calculations:

You would look into the impedance of your current head phones and then compare it to that required by an 8mm headphone jack and size the transformer accordingly.

$$ Zs = Zp * ({{N2} \over {N1}})^2 $$ $$ Zp = {{Zs} \over ({{N2} \over {N1}})^2} $$

Where N2 and N1 is the secondary and primary transformer winding turns. Zs and Zp are the secondary and primary impedances. However you choose to pick your transformer and primary or secondary, you want to make sure that the side connected to the new jacks is the smaller impedance side.

Commanderson
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  • Those are the exact opposite of this question. Those links are both about using a modern headphone with a crystal radio. This is about using a proper headphone for a crystal radio on modern equipment. – JRE Feb 23 '18 at 20:14
  • @JRE Load-matching applies, I think. The modern equipment (for headphones) expects about 32 ohms and delivers between 4 mW and perhaps 20 mW at full volume. Designed for a particular load. The old style headphones for crystal radios are, as I'm sure you know, well into the kOhms. It would make some sense to apply a load matching transformer for power transfer. I think so, anyway. I don't think it is wrong on its face, at least. However, their SPL sensitivity is... very high, too. – jonk Feb 23 '18 at 20:21
  • @jonk: Load matching is something you might have to look at. But, both of the links are about impedance conversion in the opposite direction. – JRE Feb 23 '18 at 20:24
  • @JRE Yeah, but the basic concept is what I latched onto. Not the specific details of some other solution. I hope the writer of this answer knew enough about this. Perhaps you are suggesting 'not'? – jonk Feb 23 '18 at 20:27
  • @JRE Yes this is why I didn't flag for duplicate questions. The point was that the answer or concept to the solution can be similarly used. My apologies if i didn't make this clear. Also I was in the process of adjusting the answer before I saw these comments so please check the edits i made. – Commanderson Feb 23 '18 at 20:29
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Keep your old headphones .They are valuable now .Using a step up transformer for each ear is fine ,others have stated this .Your old phones are much much more efficient than modern phones .When acoustic transducers are designed there are compromises between efficiency and bandwidth.New phones are supposed to do the full audio range .These old phones are designed for clear speech when receiving noisy signals .I found in 1975 that 1 volt of audio ballparked on an Analog meter from a simple ZN414 circuit with a basic BC107 single ended amp provided more than enough volume for my 13 year old ears.It was said then that 1mW was enough to drive the old phones .There were many simple single ended transistor circuits running on low battery voltages that would drive such phones but would never drive a speaker .If your phones are anything like what I remember in junk boxes in the 1970s then a direct connection should work .

Autistic
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  • And here I was going to offer an *even* exchange with the OP to help solve the problem. Now you've ruined the idea by letting the OP know their headphones are worth something. (Well, unless they are of the old Radio Shack piezo style, in which case 'who cares?') – jonk Feb 23 '18 at 22:38